Chardonnay Masters 2017: the results in full

Judges comments: Alistair Cooper MW

What impact did the tasting have on your perception of Chardonnay?

I believe that I am in a minority in the wine trade, as it is Chardonnay (not Riesling!) that is my favourite white grape variety. I was very pleased that this tasting did not disappoint. It also showed that Chardonnay is a grape that can perform exceptionally well at all price points, offering consumers real value for money at the bottom end and exceptional quality at the top end.

Did it confirm or alter any prejudices you may have had?

I think one of the key issues is the age old problem – oak. Clearly Chardonnay is a grape with an affinity for oak, and when used correctly it can add real depth and complexity to the wine. Whilst producers have largely learnt to tone down the use of oak, it is still an issue for the consumer. Many consumers feel strongly (either way) about oak in their Chardonnay, and whilst we tasted in flights of oaked and non-oaked wines, consumers are still none the wiser as to what they are buying. Clearer labelling could help here, as many consumers I speak to still avoid Chardonnay for that reason.

What did you like?

I thought Australia showed very well, especially Adelaide Hills. What was good to see was the move away from the anaemic, extremely early-picked styles that were just skin and bone. There is now that little bit more flesh, ripeness and fruit yet with real grace and elegance. In general it was good to see that the overtly gunflint, struck match/reductive wines were being tamed just a little. I am a fan of this style, however it can dominate just a little. It’s nice to see the fruit really showing on a lot of the wines. I’ve also got to say that oak (when used) was generally really well managed, integrated and balanced.

What didn’t you like?

There were a few wines at the lower price points, that were overtly ‘pear drop’ ester led wines, with little varietal typicity. This is a style that does absolutely nothing for me.

Were there any surprises?

The few wines from South Africa showed real class, and a tone down in their use of oak. A special mention to the Peller wines of Canada, which really delivered at a very reasonable price point, not something that I expected.