Chardonnay Masters 2017: the results in full

Judges comments: Patricia Stefanowicz MW

What I liked: What a lovely tasting! The wines we judged justify why Chardonnay is ubiquitous and beautiful. Although styles varied from light, even decorous, to rich and full, the wines were generally delicious. Alcohol and oak levels seem to be in balance with splendid fruit concentration and bright acidity. Complete wines, a joy to judge!

Finding good value wines in the £10-15 bracket with plenty in the gold and silver categories was delightful. Producers toning down the oak was often a benefit for balance. There were also some big, full-bodied wines with plenteous oak which were equally polished and balanced.

‘Tis true that the best value seems to be in the £15-20 bracket. The wines show plenty of intensity of flavour, brilliant definition and perfectly-judged oak almost imperceptible across the palate. There was a gorgeous oaked gem from Turkey and an un-oaked Chardonnay from Trentino, both of which got my votes.

Above £30 we expected and found stupendously great wines. Wonderful richness of flavour and integration of acid structure, lees-ageing and oak. ‘Yum-yum,’ more please?

What I didn’t like: Almost nothing. Every now and again the SO2 levels were just a bit too aggressive, or a wine seemed simply a bit reductive.

Final note: The few Blanc de Blancs sparklings showed well; excellent fruit, brioche autolysis and well-judged, integrated dosage. Appropriate maturity also. What’s not to love about Chardonnay?