While the great Port houses, from Noval to Graham’s and Taylor’s, produce first-rate tawnies, in this year’s Fortified Masters we came across a lesser-known name from the Douro. Barão de Vilar, a relative newcomer to the world of Port brands, provides a good value taste of a 20-year-old tawny style, with its dried fruit sweetness and gently warming, pleasantly drying finish.